What Makes the
Wild Coast ‘Wild’?
Because of its
rugged scenery, with dozens of lively rivers
cutting through rocky cliffs and gorges,
road access to the Wild Coast has remained
limited, which is why the scenery is so
undisturbed.
Another
reason for its name is that storms,
underwater topography and currents sometimes
conspire to create freakishly large waves,
the demise of many ships through the years.
But the
wildness also refers to the nature of the
Wild Coast. The coastline is made up mostly
of precipitous cliffs where waterfalls
tumble straight into the sea, dense forests
and rolling grasslands, home to hundreds of
species that occur only there.
Pondoland
(the northern part of the Wild Coast) is one
of the main areas of plant diversity in the
world, with Conservation International
having designated it a global biodiversity
‘hotspot’.
Cows on
Beaches
One of the
signature sights along the Wild Coast
remains cows on the beach, usually
accompanied by a herd boy. The cattle raised
by the local Xhosa tribes seem to derive
particular comfort and pleasure from
ruminating on their cud while lying
contentedly on the world-class beaches.
Further inland, you’ll find many tiny
villages on rolling hillsides, thatched huts
painted in sea green, pale blue, white, pink
and apricot.
The Wild
Coast also has a number of small game
reserves, where you may see eland, antelope,
wildebeest or zebra strolling along within
sight of the waves.
Timeless
Traditions
Except for
the large Wild Coast Sun Hotel and Casino,
all the hotels along this stretch of
coastline are family-owned, and most of
their visitors are regulars that have been
coming there for generations.
These
hotels offer simple food (typically
table d’hote, and centred on seafood)
and are extremely child-friendly. Every
morning, teams of cheerful nannies arrive
and take the kids off the parents’ hands for
the day. The grateful moms and pops go
fishing, snorkelling, walking, reading and
chilling out in this setting of sea, sand
and sky.
The Wild
Coast is unsophisticated and timeless, and
in the little hotel shop you’ll find all the
beach props from your own childhood holiday
memories: postcards, fishing nets, bright
buckets (yes, with spades) packs of playing
cards, colouring books and sandals in silly
colours.
Walking the
Wild Coast
One of the
best ways to see the Wild Coast is on foot,
to go ‘hotel-hopping’ along the beach as
part of a walking tour. Porters carry all
the heavy gear, and you walk with an
informative guide as you explore the beach,
tidal pools and swim in the warm seas. Each
night, you’ll have good food, a hot shower,
cold beer and a comfortable bed.
The Wild
Coast Meander takes you over 5 nights from
Kob Inn to Morgan Bay, and the Wild Coast
Amble, also 5 nights, from Qolora to Glen
Garriff in the south. More routes are
opening up all the time, and you could just
do a day walk to the next hotel, if you’d
prefer.
Encounters
and Activities
Many of
South Africa’s most notable leaders,
including Nelson Mandela and Thabo Mbeki,
came from areas close to the Wild Coast. You
could organise a tour to Nelson Mandela’s
former village, Qunu, or you could enquire
about a cultural visit from your hotel or
backpacker lodge. The local tribes (broadly
split into Xhosa and Pondo) are friendly and
have fascinating customs. Ask about local
crafts, which include beadwork, fine wooden
carvings and woven baskets.
Other
activities include fishing (including some
very fine fly-fishing around Mtentu Gorge),
horse-riding, snorkelling, and bird watching
(there are 320 species). And in mid-winter,
the sardine migration northwards attracts
pods of dolphins 30 000 strong, as well as
innumerable seabirds, sharks and whales.
